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Just bought your 2.3L Turbo car? Here is a list of general questions and answers to help put you on the right track to having a smooth running, positive Turbo Ford™ experience.

By the end of 2008 ALL 2.3L Turbo Ford vehicles will be 20 years of age. Keeping this at the forefront of your mind when purchasing this type of car will better prepare you for the relationship you are about to engage in.

I just bought my car…

You don't have to finish that question. First things first; get all the fluids replaced and change your cap, rotor, plugs and wires with stock Motorcraft parts. We sell a tune-up kit or you can go to your local Ford dealership parts department. The very next step is to get a code scanner from AutoZone or any other auto parts store in your area. They are usually around $25.00.

My car idles rough (even after the tune up)

First – did you set your base idle?

Setting the base idle is a simple process.

Start the car, check the idle; it should be around 900 to 1100 RPM. 900 on a stock engine.

If it's high or low, you'll want to adjust it.

Unplug the idle air control motor on the throttle body. The car will die if it's not at running temperature. Try your best to get it to run long enough to see the idle at about 500 RPM. Adjust the throttle plate screw till you hit the mark.

Turn the car off and plug in the IAC and restart the car. The car will idle up and run high while the ECU calibrates. If it does not step down on it's own after about 20 seconds help it along with a light blip of the throttle.

Repeat these steps till you hit your desired idle.
 

Trouble shooting:

Rough idle could be related to vacuum leaks, air intake, spark or general wiring issues. Run codes first to see if there is a problem with a sensor. Failing that, starting at the Vain Air Meter (VAM) and working right to the throttle body; check all hoses and hose connections, sensor plug and wiring along the way. Pull off the idle air controller (small cylinder mounted on the throttle body in front of the TPS) and clean it with carburetor cleaner and a Q-Tip. If you still have a rough idle, unplug the idle air controller while the car is running and see if anything changes. If not, the controller is bad or you have a break in a wire somewhere leading back to the ECU.

The next item on the list is fuel. Check your fuel pressure and injectors. 18 to 20 years is plenty of time to allow build up in the injector screens.

Throttle Position Sensor issues

The TPS replacement available for the 2.3 by Ford and aftermarket shops is adjustable, in that the screw holes are slotted, allowing for it to be rotated clockwise and counterclockwise, affecting the voltage range. The ideal range is from .97 to .99 on the low side (Key On), and it should run to 4.8 or above on the high side (WOT). Though not necessary, once you have determined if the TPS is good or have replaced it, it is best to have someone press on the actual gas peddle to test the low and high voltage signals. The range in side the car is going to differ slightly from manually opening the throttle and true pedal response is what you want to see.

You don't need the car running to set or test the TPS. If you insist on doing so, then please at least shut the car off for the WOT test. WOT with no load on the engine will damage it in short order. It is not wise to bounce any engine off its rev limiter unless you like shiny metal pieces in your oil pan.

You need to test two things. The low and high voltage reading and check for the presence of current through the entire throttle range. You can use a digital voltmeter for both, but an analog needle will be easier for your eye to catch if you hit dead spots during the throttle throw.

Find a sewing pin to probe the TPS wire. The probes on the meters will make a mess of your wiring. If you have roach clips instead of point probes, thumbs up. Attach them to the sewing pin(s) and start testing.

If your low reading is out of range – below 88 or above 1.05, loosen the two screws on the TPS just enough so you can turn it with a little effort. Once you hit the target voltage, tighten the screws and check the WOT range. Have someone step on the pedal from inside the car if possible.

Connect the analog meter and slowly open the throttle to WOT, watching the needle for drops as it moves through the voltage range. If you hit a dead spot in the same place through the voltage range more than three times, replace the TPS.

I'm getting turbo surge or loss of power problems at or around 3000 RPM…

There are many reasons for these symptoms; some are very simple, and some that will have even a veteran turbo ford enthusiast pulling out hair.

Loss of power:

The very first thing to do is check all the intake connections – yup, again. A loose hose clamp on a tight fitting hose will hold fine until you hit about 10 PSI; then suddenly the car will fall on its face as the back pressure is able to push out of the hose connection in question. Check the ring reinforced hose between the VAM and turbo inlet if you have one. It may be collapsing under boost.

Check the manifold for cracks.

Check your ground wires.

Run codes.

Check your fuel pressure while running the car under load. Fuel Pressure should rise 1 psi for every psi of boost the intake sees.

Compressor surge:

Do most of the above, but check your timing as well. If you are using anything but an aftermarket electronic boost controller (this includes the stock system), you are bound to see minor spikes. But if you get a consistent on/off shimmy at WOT, look into the electrical system fist. If you have installed all the Motorcraft components suggested above, try replacing your coil. MSD is fine, but try a stock one first. Coils rarely go bad, but I have seen it. Re-check your plug connections and make sure you use dielectric grease.

Check you boost control system. Check and replace all vacuum lines that look old. Cracks in the vacuum line can be hard to see unless you take each line off and inspect every inch while bending and twisting it.

I’ll say it again. Check all your grounds; specially the one on the turbo housing.

Check the fuel pump relay and all related wiring to the pump. If the pump is not getting enough juice, what may not be noticeable under light acceleration and idle could be a big problem under hard acceleration.

Compressor Flutter when letting off.

Some time ago the description that accompanied our compressor bypass kit was questioned in regards to whether the bypass was actually a necessity. With a completely stock 84 SVO™ and non intercooled Turbo Coupes and XR4ti's that argument may have some merit. However, two questions come to mind
-  how many Turbo Ford enthusiasts really leave the cars bone stock?
- Just because you can't hear something, doesn't mean it's not happening, even in stock configuration.

Bypass kits are put on todays Turbo cars - and most of those produced in the 90's, for reasons two fold. To eliminate slow down of the compressor wheel during shifts and as a preventative measure against damage to the fins or eventual destruction to the turbo due to traumatic stops caused by back pressure. If you think about all the reliability problems that plagued the turbo Fords throughout the 80's - all that air slamming back into the turbo is eventually going to break something.

My words on this were already questioned once, so why don't we get a second opinion from Clay Autery of TurboFord.org - Take a look at this thread here.

Oil in the intake:

First, check the Emission system; Passenger side evacuation line going from the valve cover to the turbo compressor inlet elbow and the driver side PCV - rubber hoses that goes from the crank case to the upper intake with the PCV valve about half way between. Get a stock replacement PCV valve from ford – the after market ones simply do not work at all.

If you have oil in your intake you have a PCV system problem or your head is getting an abnormal amount of pressure build up. If you also have a slight smoking on startup this points to valve stem seals. Pressure in the cylinders is getting into the top end past the seals and forcing air, oil and whatever else is in the way into your turbo compressor housing through the hole in the rear of the valve cover. Switching to an open valve cover breather is a preventative measure as far as stopping oil from being sucked into the intake, but it is NOT a solution. You may need a valve job or in the least new valve stem seals.

One thing you have to keep in mind; when these engines are running under load there is almost no oil in the pan. It’s all up in the head sitting nearly 2/3^rds full. Even a slight blow-by problem will be enough to shoot oil past the cover plate on the underside of the valve cover breather hole when the car is under boost.

On the bottom side of the equation is pressure in the crank case. This is cause by pressure getting past the rings or a non functioning PCV valve. One tell tail sign is oil blowing out the dipstick tube, but that is not entirely reliable. I’ve seen the symptoms with no ring problems. If you still see oil coming out of the dipstick tube after thoroughly cleaning the hoses and cleaning/replacing the PCV valve, do a leak down test to be sure.

I’ve done everything I can think of to fix a miss and I just can seem to get it.

Welcome to the club of 2.3T Ownership. The elusive miss on the 2.3T engine is one that stands the test of time. The PE’s in the SVO™ are notorious for this miss. I’ve only had experience with one PE powered car; an 86 SVO with 62K miles on it, that did not miss at all. Most 2.3 owners that don’t have a miss have a later ECU in the car, very low mileage or a stand alone system.